30 Hours in Venice

I realize it’s been awhile but life has been keeping me busy these past couple of weeks. 

I want to tell you about one of my favorite international destinations recently visited.  It’s a place that falls on most people’s list of top dream destinations and that is the beautiful water/canal city of Venice, Italy.  I had a weekend to do as I please (Friday afternoon through Sunday night) so I was torn between a couple different options: Croatia, Kosovo, or Venice.  In the end Venice won out because of time constraints with the travel options available to me.  I likely could have made either of the other two work out but my time there would have been even more limited than what I ended up with in Venice.  My location was near Graz, Austria, and with train travel so prevalent in the area this was going to by my primary source or travel for the weekend.  Flying was too expensive and really didn’t gain me a lot of time with the flight times available.  I made a reservation at a hostel in the city online before leaving so I’d know I’d have a place to stay Saturday night and then took off with a backpack and my “purse” (more or less it’s a messenger bag).  I traveled to Graz by train and then went to the information office there at the station to get tickets for the remainder of my travel.  I had a pass that allows me to travel by train in Austria without purchasing a ticket so I mainly just needed to know availability and times for the trains into Venice.  I was able to have guaranteed seating to Klagenfurt but from there I had no guarantees and was told the night train (that traveled from Vienna to Venice) was sold out.  Figuring there would be more options available I went for it knowing I could always spend the night in the station there if it came down to it.  Upon reaching Klagenfurt I noticed the next approaching train was scheduled through to Rome with a stop in mainland Venice so I ran around to the other side of the tracks and asked the train official waiting at the doors if there was room available to Venice…getting conformation I hopped on and bought my passage from him before winding my way through the cars to find an open seat.

Canal through Venice

Thankfully, I managed to be a light sleeper for once in my life and woke up just before we approached the Venice station at about 4:00am.  I have to admit that the next hour and a half was a bit on the creepy side of things.  One, I don’t know Italian.  Having some generic language background and familiarity with German and French I could guess at some of the things being said around me, but I would probably not suggest arrival as a solo female traveler at 4:00 in the morning when you have to wait until about 5:30 for the first train out to the station on the island/s.   I will say that I was incredibly excited to arrive in Venice and stand on the bridge out in front of the station and watch the sunrise over the city.  I think the only thing that might beat that was if I had gotten there early enough to walk around to the east side of the island and watch it come up over the ocean-but either way it was absolutely gorgeous and something I will never forget.  J

Sunrise over Venice

I walked around the city for a few hours finding some bread for breakfast and learning my way around the main streets/bridges for easier navigation later.  I then found my way to the hostel so I could check in and dumped off one of my bags taking only necessities with me as it was a hot, sunny day in Italy.  Acquiring a map at the desk and some helpful hints on where I should go and what to see I set off for my day in Venice.  I enjoyed walking the streets with windows full of leather, glass, and beautiful masks.  One could never tire from the sight-it’s fascinating!  I walked the famous Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge) over the Grand Canal, watched gondoliers floating along the way, and marveled at the Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square).  There is a reason that Venice is a desired destination for most people and I now know that for a fact.  Rather than having a meal for dinner, I snacked my way through the morning and afternoon on fresh bread, gelato, and different Italian treats and then headed on a water taxi across to Murano where I watched a glass blowing demonstration and wandered around completely enthralled with all of the handmade glass products available.  It really is marvelous what one can do with the stuff.  J

Glass Display on Murano

The afternoon held a bit more adventure for me as I was caught unaware in a brief downpour (as were most of the people there).  I sought shelter in a little boutique and ended up finding a couple really nice shirts I bought.  Emerging out into the streets again I decided to make a quick stop back at the hostel to drop off my accumulating purchases, grab my umbrella, and seek some suggestions for a good supper restaurant.  *Take note that wearing flip flops on wet stone streets is NOT a suggested travel tip.* I walked back to my “sunrise” bridge to watch night fall on the city before setting out for the suggested restaurant that was a little off of the beaten path (walking alone on the “streets” of Venice at night may be a bit uncomfortable for some as it is more or less walking single file alleys with very little lighting).  I found the restaurant to be a nice little cozy place where most of the patrons were true Venetians and I and one other couple (also Americans) were the only tourists.  *Thank you hostel worker for your outstanding recommendation!*  I had an amazing real Italian pizza that left me stuffed beyond belief with a lot left over (and sadly nowhere to keep it, though I have to say I don’t know if asking for a box would be frowned upon there or not).  Needless to say I spent my one and only night in Venice sleeping very well.  I had experienced a wonderful day in the city and met some wonderful people along the way.

Nightfall over Venice

I got up the next morning with every intention of taking the train back the entire way only to find that the train schedules did not overlap enough for me to make my connections and get back to my little Austrian city in time.  I was left scrambling for a way home.  *This falls under one of those times where my spontaneity can cause problems.* I ended up buying a ticket for a bus to Klagenfurt later in the day but traveling by train to Udine, Italy, and then managed to catch the earlier bus to Klagenfurt.  This allowed me to barely-just barely-catch the right train connections to get me back to Graz and make the final train out of the city to my little town in the countryside.  I walked quietly into the house shortly before one on Sunday night/Monday morning brimming with excitement from the experiences I had had and also exhausted knowing I would be up bright and early the next morning to start working again.   

Piazza San Marco

Anyone who wants to plan a trip to Venice I would love to give you some specifics, it just gets to be a lot to type them all out on here.  Maybe another time…

Networking In a Traveler's World

Networking…that’s probably the last thing some of you want to hear and I can truly understand that.  In the business world we now live in networking is largely the only way to gain that dream job.  You have to know someone to get inside and it can be a difficult way to get what you want when you begin with not knowing anyone…or so it seems.  But in the world of travel, networking is more focused on fun rather than business.  In all honesty, it may not even be the best term used for what I’m talking about-being able to go somewhere new and exciting because you know someone there.  And actually there are two different realms of this idea.  The first one is going to visit someone you know well, a good friend or a family member, and then taking the time to enjoy and explore a place you’ve never been before.  The second would be just the opposite and really the more cold and unfriendly of the two and that’s going somewhere to explore a new place and seeing someone briefly because you’re already there…this is better applied with acquaintances or friends of friends with whom you are more unfamiliar. 

Driving down the interstate heading for the Historic Apache Trail

People are unknowingly doing these or variations of them all of the time.  Maybe you go somewhere for a business trip but find time to grab lunch with a friend or family member who lives there as well.  Or you’ve got a free morning so you go to a museum you’ve always wanted to visit.  I’ve managed to travel in many variations of these as well.  One of the more recent was my trip to Mesa, Arizona, for the wedding of two good college friends.  I’d never been to Arizona before (and like a lot of people I have dreamed of traveling to all 50 states since I was much younger) and found this invitation to be the perfect opportunity to explore the area surrounding the Phoenix Metro.  I also have some family and friends down in the area and was hoping I could meet up with them or stay with some of them while I was there.  With the wedding on Saturday and a brunch on Sunday, I headed out from the Sioux Falls Regional Airport early Thursday morning and arrived at the Phoenix Sky Harbor Int’l Airport mid-morning with the time difference.  That gave me almost the entire day to do some exploring.  For this reason I was renting a car and not sharing rides with others coming to the wedding or getting rides from friends and family who lived there.  I wanted a bit more independence to go and do as I chose.

Part of the Trail-Tortilla Flats, definite tourist stop

Before purchasing my tickets and hotel and everything of the sort, I did a little bit of research for what I wanted to do and see.  Knowing I wanted to fit as much in as a could but leaving time for being my spontaneous self, I decided on a scenic drive from the Metro area up to the Theodore Roosevelt Dam on the Historic Apache Trail/State Route 88.  From there I headed southeast toward Globe and then took a scenic, but much more direct route, back to the Metro area on Highway 60.  It was an awesome experience and made me feel slightly more at home as the trail is primarily dirt roads except for the beginning and then once you reach the Dam.  There are many lookouts located along the trail providing ample opportunities for pictures of the desert scene.  I would highly recommend this drive (except maybe for those prone to motion sickness) and I would suggest being cautious of what time of year you go as many sections are susceptible to flash flooding.  I made it up to Globe for supper (dinner for you city folk) and drove around the small town before heading back toward Mesa.  The time change threw me off a bit so instead of doing something else I found my hotel and checked in for the night, content to watch baseball and bull riding on the TV mixed in with some light reading. 

Peeking at the Theodore Roosevelt Dam

I woke up the next morning to a beautiful, but incredibly bright sunrise thus getting me up a little earlier than planned.  Knowing I would be picking up a friend from the airport early afternoon I decided to stick closer to the metro area to explore.  I found myself coming across a small park and botanical garden (Park of the Canals) where I walked around for about an hour and then continued on my way.  Recognizing the time and not wanted to spend much money, I stopped at a store and bought some snacks I could make a meal out of and then returned to the park and garden where I sat under a shelter and read for the next couple of hours before beginning the drive up to the airport to pick up my friend.  We had a great time that afternoon hanging out at the nice outdoor pool at the hotel before heading off to Toby Keith’s I Love This Bar & Grill.  AMAZING food!  If you’ve never eaten there I would highly suggest it.  It was the first time for both of us and we thoroughly enjoyed it…plus the live country music was a big plus for me.  J 

With some time to explore Saturday morning before readying for the wedding, we took off for the Desert Botanical Garden in Phoenix where we walked every trail that was open.  The scenery was spectacular, especially for someone who is accustomed to prairie, pasture, and fields all on a flat or gently rolling plain.  My fair skin took a bit of a hit from the high Southern sun, but overall I faired pretty well on the sunburn scale of things.  *Something to keep in mind when you travel is to make sure you’re aware of things like this- especially if you’re from the north, going south can make a big difference in the strength of the sun.*  The Desert Botanical Garden was a really nice place (they do have student discounts so take your student ID if you’ve got it) as it portrayed some of the area culture as well through structures, gardens, and ways of living for the natives and early settlers scattered amongst the vegetation.  I would really recommend this if you’ve got a couple of hours to spend but need to stay close the metro as you can get a taste of the desert without leaving the city limits.  On our way back to the hotel we stopped and treated ourselves to true Mexican food at Matta’s…some good stuff there!

Desert Botanical Garden, Phoenix

The wedding was located at the gorgeous Lavender & Old Lace in Mesa.  And Sunday I was able to see a bit more of the area while driving to the brunch in Queen Creek and then up to Scottsdale to spend the afternoon and night with some family before heading back to South Dakota on Monday morning.  All in all, committing to attending the wedding and allowing myself two extra days off of work allowed me to explore the area surrounding the Phoenix Metro and still be able to relax with friends and family.

Outside area at Lavender & Old Lace, Mesa

Don’t be afraid to turn a trip with a purpose into something more-being able to explore and have some fun in a place you’ve not yet had the chance.  Let people know what you’re thinking of doing…most people can offer suggestions or help you brainstorm some ideas if you’re not completely certain.  And don’t be scared to ask friends or family if you can stay with them when you go.  Most people would love the chance to have you stay with them even if you’re going to be doing other things.  And it never hurts the pocketbook any either.  So enjoy yourself and take advantage of any trips you make…stop at places when you’re driving if you’ve got an extra few minutes or spend an extra day in a city you love after your business meetings are completed or the reunion or wedding you were there to attend is over-I can guarantee you won’t regret it.

Mapping It Out

How many of us can get by in a new place without something to tell us where to go?  Maps may be something not everyone enjoys, but they are a great tool when going on vacation and playing tourist.  If you’re not comfortable with maps either because you don’t have experience reading them, or aren’t good with directions, etc., then now is a good chance to start learning. 

Map provided at the information center in the Graz, Austria, Hauptbahhof was fabulous. (left 1/2 of map)

In this era with the vast development of technology many of us, myself included, have become largely dependent on technology to get us by in travel.  But when it comes to finding your way around a city quickly and finding those fun tourist spots that may be familiar only to the locals, maps are your best friend.  GPS and Navigation Systems are great when you’re sticking to main routes and popular sites.  But as I mentioned in my earlier post (“Raring to Go") becoming a part of the local culture is an ideal way to get the most out of your trips and this includes making stops that will likely be unfamiliar to your system.  Most locations will have either a tourist information office or location to gain maps, brochures, and other helpful tips on finding your way around the area.  If not, city chamber offices, city halls, or even state tourism office websites can provide you with the necessary information.  In this case, it may not be a bad idea to check out your destination online and see what information may be available upon arrival.  Heavily trafficked spots such as airports, car rental agencies, and hotels may also be able to provide you with what you need. 

Right 1/2 of Graz map.  Note each half has a map key for different things.

I want to point out that there are different kinds of maps available.  Interstate rest stops in the United States often have state or regional maps available that can help with travel on major routes but may not have many tourist destinations marked other than state or national parks.  Maps received at a car rental agency are going to point out all of their locations as well as airports and a few area/regional attractions but may not provide you with the specifics for which you’re searching.  Ideally the state or local tourist offices are going to be the treasure trove of information from restaurants, clubs, shopping areas, historical spots, and parks and recreation areas.  Don’t feel self-conscience of taking maps and brochures for anything and everything available.  Once you’ve made a stop at these places you don’t want to have to go back again so find out as much as you can your first time.    Now that we’ve got that out of the way I can share the fun of reading maps!

This is the back of the Graz map.  Separate mapping of bus, tram, and train routes.

I really do love maps…they are full of information, if you know how to read them.  Typically, maps will have a map key or information box that will display symbols used to designate locations and list what they stand for.  In other instances, a map may just display an image or icon with the locations name where it is located on the actual map.  Oftentimes, this means the images will closely resemble what the location is such as a church representing a cathedral or other religious building, and usually these are very stereotyped images which can be a bit helpful when little else is said about a destination other than its name.  Tourist office maps are great as they will oftentimes display the traditional “i” where the information office is located to help give you a sense of direction.   If there are specific tourist routes or transportation services provided in the area those may also be denoted in the map key such as a “T” for taxi services, “S” or “U” for subway/underground terminals, “B” or bus icon for bus stops, “P” for parking areas, or colored lines marking bus or tram routes to specific locations such as ferries, airports, train stations, or museums. 

Map of Caen, France, from Tourism Office. You may notice no map key-this is because the map is a center fold in a booklet with information on each numbered location.

Ideally, don’t feel overwhelmed when looking at maps.  They may present a whole host of information it’s just a matter of sorting through it to get what you need.  Some people a bit uncomfortable with them find using them only as a reference works best as many destinations have signs posting where you need to go and will use this for their main directional guidance.  Others are able to focus solely on what they need and follow the map.  Just don’t let yourself get distracted and it will be just fine.  Maybe you’re a map lover like myself and spend a little extra time comparing maps, picking up every one provided.  If you know where to get your information from and how it’s presented you’ll be able to get anywhere whether you have a horrible sense of direction or not.

I realize this blog has been a bit different from my previous ones but I’m hoping you can find a bit of helpful information in it.  Always feel free to let me know what you think!  J

Sticking to the Plan…With a Side of Spontaneity

I’ll admit right away that while I may make plans I am not known for following them out as intended.  While in some circumstances this may be a problem, doing this in travel allows you to get the most out of everything since you are able to add things you discover once you’ve arrived.  Europe is one of the best places for this, too, with its extensive transportation system with planes, boats, trains, busses, and taxis.  If it’s something you want to do/somewhere you want to go you can pretty much make it happen.  

driving across Austria

Last summer, July/August 2010, I had just over three weeks to travel Europe as I chose.  Who could hope for something better?  With the benefit of traveling on my own I considered where I wanted to go and how long I wanted to stay there.  After a bit of finagling I had a plan in place that included traveling from southeastern Austria to Munich, Dublin, Galway, London, Southampton, Glasgow (and a tour of Scotland), Portsmouth, St. Malo, Caen (and the D-Day Beaches), Paris, Versailles, back to Munich, Salzburg, and the return trip to southeastern Austria in about 22/23 days.  It was a lot of ground to cover and a lot of places/sights fit into the timing including visiting two different friends from college-one studying in Galway, Ireland, and the other living with her husband in Southampton, England.  It really helped having everything written down (I took my schedule with me in my backpack to have handy at a moment’s notice.  This way I was able to prioritize my time as I went.  My time with my friends, visiting Scotland where my maternal grandfather’s family came from, and Caen-known for its role in World War II history- were musts on my trip.  Knowing my struggle with sticking to a schedule, I refrained from making all of my transportation and overnight accommodations before I began the trip.  Instead, I made them as I went along once I knew things were a little more concrete-this was largely possible because of my little netbook I carried with me as well as internet cafes along the way.

along the river in Dublin, Ireland

My plans didn’t last long.  I did spend my scheduled time with my friend in Ireland and had a fabulous time seeing the area and sitting in on her class she was taking while I was with her; it really made me miss school and consider going back for my master’s degree.  From Dublin I flew to London and traveled by train to Southampton but instead of staying only a couple of days my time with friends there extended itself to nearly a week.  I thoroughly enjoyed my time with them including this amazing fish pie dish my friend made…it was SUPERB!!!  I realized, however, that I needed to get moving along to make everything I wanted to do happen so I made arrangements while with them for the next two legs of my journey.  Train travel to Glasgow, Scotland, and a 2 day tour of the countryside and Highlands with Rabbie's Trail Burners.  A train ride down to Portsmouth, England, and an overnight ferry ride to St. Malo, France, followed by a night in Rennes, France, before traveling on to Caen.  Here, my itinerary took another detour.  I absolutely fell in love with Caen.  It’s a wonderful town full of lots of history, charm, and friendly people.  While initially planning on being there only a couple of days, I ended up staying 4 nights there before being forced to leave in order to make it back to Austria in time to be to work the upcoming Monday morning.  I was able to extend my stay at the Hotel Courtonne after a brief and stilted conversation with the French owner.  (*Note that is may not always be possible in the summer in a popular tourist destination, but it is a little more feasible when traveling alone*)  My trip back to southeastern Austria was a bit rushed and frantic and probably a good example of being a bit too spontaneous as I managed to travel from Caen, France, to Feldbach, Austria, but train (and bus where the train routes were under construction) in about 36 hours.  Quite a feat I realized after looking back over the train schedules and the route I had to take when trains were full. 

Dunkeld Cathedral-Scotland

They say that hindsight is 20/20 and while there may have been a better way of going about my 3 weeks of travel I really would not have changed a thing about it.  I had a fabulous time visiting friends and seeing history brought to life.  I managed to meet people from all over including some wonderful Canadians who became my photographers while on the 2 day tour in Scotland, a fun mother and son from California traveling in France before heading to Italy to visit family, and a great older couple from Oklahoma returning to visit the D-Day beaches where family friends had pushed their way on shore that June morning struggling and fighting for the freedoms of so many-people they never got to meet.

at the American Cemetery near Colleville, France

All of this to say that while planning is a necessary part of travel, leaving a little room for spontaneity is highly recommended.  I was able to go back to places in Caen and really absorb the importance of what happened and the beauty of a wonderful town with its wonderful marketplace in the square so I was able to enjoy some amazing fresh fruit and baguettes.  I met people I otherwise would not have crossed paths with by extending my stays and allowed myself to really absorb the surrounding culture and take time to enjoy the area.  You can learn so much from the citizens and really see what life is like wherever you choose to go.  Just make sure you allow some flexibility in your travel plans next time you embark on a journey.

city view of Caen, France, after a thundershower